Step-by-Step Guide to Drafting a Basic Women’s Shirt Pattern
Materials Needed:
Pattern paper (or large craft paper)
Measuring tape
Ruler, French curve, and hip curve (or a flexible ruler)
Pencil, eraser, and scissors
Basic shirt measurements (bust, waist, hips, shoulder width, arm length, neck circumference).
1. Take Measurements:
Bust: Fullest part of the chest.
Waist: Narrowest part of the torso.
Hips: Widest part of the hips.
Shoulder Width: From shoulder tip to tip.
Arm Length: From shoulder tip to wrist (for sleeve length).
Neck Circumference: Base of the neck.
Shirt Length: Desired from shoulder to hem.
Add Ease Allowance:
Add 1–2 inches to bust/waist/hips for comfort (adjust based on fit preference).
2. Draft the Front Bodice:
Draw a rectangle:
Width = (Bust + Ease) ÷ 4.
Height = Shirt Length.
Mark Center Front (CF) vertically.
Neckline:
From top corner, measure down 2–3 inches (front neck depth) and draw a curved line to CF.
Shoulder Slope:
From top corner, slope down 0.5–1 inch over 2–3 inches (adjust based on shoulder shape).
Armhole:
Measure down from shoulder tip: Bust ÷ 6 + 1.5 inches.
Use a French curve to shape the armhole.
Side Seam:
From underarm, taper slightly inward at the waist and back out at the hips.
Bust Dart:
Mark bust point (BP) 8–9 inches from CF and 4–5 inches below shoulder.
Draft a dart pointing toward BP (width = 1–1.5 inches).
3. Draft the Back Bodice:
Repeat the front rectangle but raise the neckline by 0.5 inches.
Shoulder Slope: Slope down 1–1.5 inches (steeper than the front).
Back Dart:
Place a vertical dart from the waist up to mid-back for shaping (width = 0.5–1 inch).
4. Sleeve Drafting:
Measure the armhole circumference (front + back).
Sleeve Cap Height: Armhole circumference ÷ 3.
Draw a rectangle:
Width = Armhole circumference ÷ 2.
Height = Sleeve length + cuff allowance.
Shape the sleeve cap with a gentle curve using the French curve.
5. Collar (Optional):
For a basic collar, draw a rectangle:
Length = Neck circumference + 1 inch.
Width = Desired collar height (e.g., 2 inches).
6. Assemble the Pattern:
Cut out front, back, sleeve, and collar pieces.
Label each piece with grainlines, notches, and fold lines.
Test with Muslin: Sew a mock-up to check fit and adjust as needed.
Tips for Beginners:
Start with a loose-fit shirt to minimize fitting complexity.
Use pre-made templates for basic shapes to save time.
Always add ½-inch seam allowances when cutting fabric.
This method creates a simple, customizable shirt pattern suitable for casual or fitted styles. Adjust proportions based on desired design (e.g., button-up, oversized, or tailored).