Creating a qipao sewing pattern involves precise measurements, drafting, and adjustments. Here’s a step-by-step guide for beginners:
1. Gather Tools & Materials
Tools: Pattern paper, ruler, French curve, measuring tape, pencil, scissors.
Fabric: Use muslin or cheap fabric for testing.
2. Take Body Measurements
Measure the following (in cm or inches):
Bust: Fullest part of the chest.
Waist: Narrowest part of the torso.
Hips: Fullest part of the hips.
Shoulder to Waist: Base of neck to natural waist.
Dress Length: Shoulder to desired hem (e.g., knee or ankle).
Armhole Depth: Shoulder tip to underarm (typically 18–22 cm / 7–8.5").
3. Draft the Basic Bodice
A. Front Bodice
Draw a rectangle:
Width: (Bust + 6 cm ease) / 4.
Height: Shoulder-to-Waist + 2 cm.
Mark key points:
Neckline: From top-left corner, mark 6.5 cm right (neck width) and 7 cm down (neck depth). Curve the neckline.
Armhole: From shoulder tip, draw a curved line to the armhole depth.
Add darts:
Bust Dart: 10–12 cm long, placed 7 cm from center front.
Waist Dart: 8–10 cm long, centered between bust dart and side seam.
B. Back Bodice
Repeat the front steps but reduce the neck width to 5 cm and omit the bust dart.
4. Draft the Skirt
Draw a rectangle:
Width: (Hips + 4 cm ease) / 2.
Height: Dress Length – Bodice Height.
Add flare (optional): For an A-line skirt, widen the hem by 5–10 cm on each side.
5. Create the Sleeves (Optional)
Short Sleeve:
Draw a rectangle with width = armhole circumference + 2 cm ease, height = desired sleeve length (e.g., 15 cm).
Curve the cap using a French curve.
6. Combine and Adjust
Align bodice and skirt: Match waistlines and blend side seams.
Add seam allowances:
1.5 cm for side seams and armholes.
3 cm for hem.
Label: Mark grainline, notches, and piece names (e.g., "Front Bodice").
7. Test and Refine
Cut a muslin mockup: Sew and fit on the body.
Adjustments:
Tighten darts for a closer fit.
Widen seams for ease.
Key Tips
Use interfacing for stiff collars and slits.
For a high slit, extend the side seam 25–30 cm upward from the hem.
Reference traditional qipao patterns (e.g., 1930s Shanghai style) for authentic details.
Example Pattern Adjustments
Modern Twist: Convert the straight collar to a snug-fit collar by curving the neckline inward.
Asymmetric Hem: Tilt the skirt pattern diagonally for a contemporary look.
With practice, you can adapt this basic pattern to endless styles! 🧵